The mighty Kangchenjunga

It was a cold winter day. And we started our drive from Gangtok, Sikkim to Pelling- a four hour drive through winding roads and mountains. The aim of this road trip was to sight the lofty Kangchenjunga-the third highest mountain in the world after Mount everest and K2.

On a clear day, locals told us that one could view Kangchenjunga from Gangtok, but we hadn't been fortunate enough to have seen that. So we headed west, to Pelling, to try our luck. Pelling- a sleepy town in western  Sikkim had nothing really to boast about except that it had Kangchenjunga in its backyard!  With our fingers crossed we started our journey. On our way to Pelling, we met tourists who were on their way back to Gangtok from Pelling. Most of them told us they hadn't been able to see the mountain ranges. Clouds had enveloped the entire region for almost two weeks. We were ready for disappointment. But we carried on. As our SUV struggled to climb the uphill mountainous roads, we were captivated by the serene beauty of the region. Alpine forests on both sides of the roads, the occasional waterfalls cascading its way down to the valley, the small villages where we stopped for some tea and momos made sure that we wouldn't be completely disappointed even if we didn't get to see the ranges.

We finally reached Pelling. It was a small town with one tiny bus station and a number of small hotels. We checked ourself into one of these many hotels. One of the first thing that I asked the hotel manager was if the weather had been clear in the last few days. He pointed out to what to me looked only like a wall of clouds and told me that all they had been able to see over the last two weeks was these clouds. He also said that if we wanted to see the mountains, we would have a much better chance early in the morning than any other time of the day. However he also said that we shouldn't be too optimistic. My heart sank. I decided that even if I couldn't see the mountain range, I would try to enjoy this wonderful little town and whatever little it had to offer.  While I was talking to the manager, I noticed that he was watching the series LOST. I was excited to find yet another LOST fan in this town. Since LOST seasons are not shown at the same time in India as here in the US, I realized that he was still watching season 4 while I had finished watching season 5. I sat along with him and started to tell him all that had happened in season 5. I don't think he appreciated that much and suggested that I might want to walk around and see the town. 

Taking his hints I decided to join my parents and we went walking around the town, which was a few stores, a few travel agencies, a state tourism office and a helipad. There were other tourists who were also wandering around like us not having a clue about what can be done in this tiny town. As the day ended and darkness fell on this little town, we didn't have much of an option but to go back to our hotel. After having a decent dinner at the hotel restaurant we went up to our room and curled into our beds with a small heater. 

I woke up before my parents did at about 5. I looked out of the window and saw white clouds floating at the horizon. I woke my parents up and waited for the sun to rise. At around 5:30, we saw a pink light on the horizon. We had been told that at times, one can see the snow on the mountains reflect the first rays of sun giving the illusion of pink. We were thrilled. We had caught the first glimpse of Kangchenjunga. We started taking pictures of that faint pink light...happy and content that we saw a little bit of the mountain ranges. But after fifteen minutes or so....the clouds on the horizon started thinning and the sun came up directing its spotlight on the mountain range. And then we saw, the mighty Kangchenjunga standing covered with ice and snow, rising up from the dense clouds around it. It looked like the warmth of the sun had compelled the mountains to shed its blanket of clouds. We could see five peaks of the mountain range with clouds gliding around it, sometimes giving the illusion of slicing the mountain into halves. We stared at the mighty Kangchenjunga for a while, mesmerized by its quiet power and benevolent presence. We did not click any photographs, we did not yell in excitement, we just stared...stared at its white glittering snow, stared at its proud stature, stared at its ancient peaks and stared at its simple beauty. We were hypnotized by its grandness. These mountain ranges are considered holy by the locals. Also, it is one of the most difficult peak to conquer (more than Mt.  Everest, I was told by our local guide).  Many have died on their way to the peak. And it is this aloofness of the mountains that we could feel when we watched it. It was as if, the mountains stood there to protect everyone from all that is evil, but still remained untouchable to us. The mountains stood like a connect between the mortal world and all that's beyond it. The sun light and the clouds played with each other to sometimes cover the mountain ranges and and sometimes allow it to peek out of the clouds in its entire glory.

Our hotel manager came running to our room, so that he could wake us up. He pointed to the different peaks of the ranges and told us the names of each one of them. He also said that we were indeed lucky since this was the first time after two weeks that they had seen the ranges. Now that I was out of trance, I quickly grabbed my camera and started taking pictures. As we started to get ready for the day, the mountains continued to bask in the warm winter morning sun. We drove around Pelling and we could see the mountains from every corner and every bend. There it stood like the all knowing, all encompassing entity, protecting its people and yet maintaing its distance. 

As noon approached the clouds once more won the game with the sun and engulfed the mountains within itself. We couldn't see the ranges, but we felt its presence around us. And now when I looked at the clouds in the horizon, I knew what it held within itself. One of the most magnificent sights in the world, one of the most revered mountains, one of the highest peaks in the world-the mighty Kangchenjunga.